Tuesday, April 27, 2010

'Rounding The Cape in a Strong Gale' Part IV

Evening crept slowly past the little green palm trees and red stucco villa's on the horizon, and, quite drunk at this point, he managed to set a reasonable course towards a little sandy mirage whose smooth shores barely perturbed the crimson skyline to the south. The island must have had a name, an identity, but at this point all that was peripheral and unimportant. He just wanted to stop moving, so that the simultaneous urges to give up and throw up might cease for a bit, just until things steadied enough to start the next binge on life. Sure enough, fortune smiles, or at least creased it's lips, because just as the sun died to the west, a sheltered weakness in the northern coast of the isle presented itself, and he settled with the familiar comfort of home with anchorage and piece of mind.

He awoke in the morning with an uneasy familiarity, deja vu for a place gathered like a mirage above the flat blue Mediterranean. The isle had a name, it must, but names were irrelevant in the experience, so he chose instead to fix a drawn out, lazy Sunday breakfast, eggs and fennel and toast with bacon, gin from the bottle he hadn't quite done away with last night, the bitter drops clinging to the green insides of the glass, opalescent in the sun. He put on faded khaki cut offs and rowed the little dingy into shore, the beach a million souls of crushed sea creatures, their hollow homes baking in the warm air. He had never seen a beach made only of shells, and he bent down close to the bleached, gritty surface so that his face was inches from it; studying the myriad shapes and histories of them. At one end of the little cove was a rocky protrusion out into the sea, gray limestone butting up against the azure water ten or fifteen meters high. At the top of this little precipice, suspended on rough wooden stilts, was a little red house, neat yellow trim around the windows and door suggesting the summer home of a modest family, a tax accountant in Marseilles or cafe owner in Nice. Clark approached the house at a modest clip, feet always catching a forward fall, the anticipation of the next step too much for gravity to counter. At the northernmost edge of the rock, right before it tumbled down into the sea, stood Guillaume. 'Oh Guillaume!" Clark thought with abstract joy, and ran full sprint down the remaining 50 meters of the white shells.

It was not Guillaume. The young man's features changed and became more angular, a trim mustache turned downward at the creased edges of his lips and an elaborately styled pouf of straight brown hair jutting over his forehead like the cliff over the sea. He was still, he said nothing at first. His expression was smug and content, a gambler who just played his best hand to the bewilderment of his opponents. As Clark speculated in panicked urgency on how to best introduce himself, an uninvited guest on a private island, the young man took off towards him like a derailed freight train, his smirk replaced by a gaping, manic smile, and before Clark knew it he was being wrestled into the soft sand, the dead sea creatures brushing uncomfortably on the day old sunburn on his thighs. He made no effort towards resistance, rather he let his body go limp the way a kitten might innately understand when its mother picks it up by the scruff, he knew somehow this too was an integral part of the experience, being wrestled with in the sand by a French madman on an island off the Cote D'Azure.

He felt the imperceptible pull of gravity, downwards and into the mushy, salty ground, and was resigned to his fate even before he knew the outcome. The young man's name was Julian, and he said he was sorry, but visitor's were not expected or necessarily welcomed. He said he might make an exception for Clark, and with this Julian led him up an old wooden staircase in a shallow cleft in the precipice, his steps bounding upwards like a small child climbing a lookout tower; boundless energy and exuberance. Julian was fucking crazy; this Clark had gathered quite sensibly from their first encounter. The rigid rules of society, even along the hedonistic Cote D'Azure did him no justice, and yet he ostensibly refrained from drugs or alcohol, Clark thought in amazement, walking around the barren cabin. By barren, he of course meant there were no substances to partake in; rather it was covered, from the prim whitewashed walls to the bare beams of the ceiling, with art of the most obscene and beautiful kind, photographs. Big ones, small ones, giant phantasmagorical pinhole apparitions on glossy matte: they were everywhere.
As Julian poured jus d'orange avec oullettes in the neat, rectangular kitchen, Clark of course broke the silence with the logical question of whether Julian was a photographer [he looked a few years too old to be an art student still?].


In broken English, fragmented bits of thought that were endearingly honest, he said he had studied photography and painting in Geneva, his parents lived in Marseille, and that work was not required of him right now, in the fiscal sense at least. His family came from old establishment, with lineage dating back to the suppression of the bourgeois in the Revolution, and the subjugation of Africa in the colonial days. He quickly followed this with the fact that by living on the island alone, painting and photographing nature and himself, he was slowly atoning for the sins of past lives, the inexcusable womb of privileged comfort he had come from, and was on his way to becoming pure, or at least aware. This sounded awfully pretentious and scary, Clark thought, and breakfast on the little yellow wooden veranda sounded much more achievable and rewarding.

He told Julian they didn't have to talk if he didn't want to, which seemed to relieve him immensely, he communicated now in nervous, anticipatory smiles and quick glances over his shoulder, as if aware of the judgement of the seagulls and forest creatures. The isle was bigger than he thought, Julian informed him in matter-of-fact pride 5 kilometers long and 2 wide, it had been a trading outpost during the Roman Empire and later a small fishing community was built on the stone ruins of the Roman fort. It had ended up in the personal estate of a Jacques de Marquee, one of the most powerful and tyrannic land barons of the old world, his summer respite from the growing demands of the serf's in the late 18th century. The sun here was hot and luxurious, radiant in a way that justified the excess of spending and accumulation, Clark thought, and suddenly Julian's 20-something ineptness and life out on the island seemed more acceptable.

Clark thought he ought to tell Julian about Guillaume, not that he would care, just to air his thoughts in morning breeze before a similar soul, someone who might laugh and point, yet also might feel compassion, jealously even perhaps. Julian listened intently and then did precisely as he had expected; laughed and gesticulated in wild incoherent French and almost fell over in his chair, saying something to the effect that he was an American dealing with the French and this was so typical it wasn't even worth noting. This made Clark angry, yet also sympathetic, Julian was a similar soul after all, life had become so surreal. He liked how Julian was vulnerable and insecure like him, aesthetic and angular and filled with exploding ideas, but tired of being watched, being watched Goddamn it! By himself more than anyone he thought sadly. Still though, they were intrigued, because he presented an interruption to a life that was already resigned to predictable boredom, the flat spots in his collective experience their high points.

He remembered sitting in the library at Brown earlier in the semester, January it was, the wet snow coming down in heavy, globular thwacks on the old wooden roof. Across a table sat a black, curvaceous girl lost in the internal struggle of committing to reading or listlessly watching boys, and he noted with contentment that Brown was doing a great job creating a more diverse student body. Thoughts of how exotic she seemed compared to his blinded, bubbled childhood distracted him, and he looked up again at her to discover she was in fact not black, just had an awful, orange tan, the drooping edges of her lips hiding a lingering unhappiness. This was it though; Clark had this ability to look at people and stare right through them, the unchanging geometry of a brick wall or hedgerow more appealing than a stranger's face. She had watched him though, with nervous fascination, he wore a Kashmiri crewel coat adorned with bright swirls of color, and faded gray levi's two sizes too small, garish red thrift store penny loafers slid over green argyle socks. A bastardized hippy prepster, he must have seemed like, worse than those pretty blonde SDS girls in their Tibetan dresses and long scarves, hiding under layer after layer of cultural appropriation.

Julian could tell he was distracted, and led him arm in arm the way the French do down to the beach on the other side of the precipice, which miraculously was made of sand and not shells, the texture more pleasing to his bare, calloused feet. He had his camera, a heavy black Leica with expensive looked attachments and a long, rounded lens jutting forward like an eye against his hips. At the end of the little sand cove some smooth, flat ledges faded down into the shallow green water, and he sharply instructed Clark to lay down there, facing him with one arm propping his head up. 'Like a fucking mermaid', Clark thought, yet he complied without hesitation.

Julian took photographs as if he'd heard he might be charged for them one day; each click of the shutter confident yet apprehensive of consequence or misdirected intent. Clark followed his instructions silently, the shallow, repetitive waves and distant gulls framing things just right in the absence of words. Julian never specified what anything was for; rather it was inherently understood that he was a documentary, a biopic, a hurried trip forward that needed no explanation. Suddenly sex seemed so sterile and mechanical to Clark that his relationship with this new stranger became unburdened and platonic; still beautiful, yet free of the expectations of love. This wasn't to say that attachment wouldn't occur, indeed, Clark prayed in his hollow mind at the moment that he might know the fullness of spirit that came with selfless affection. The physics of love though, the material presence was so greedy and consuming, it gnawed away at him until he cried out in pain.

Julian was done for the moment with the endearingly French gesticulating and posturing, and he relieved Clark of his mermaid duties, abandoning the Leica in the pale sand and bounding half-clothed into the sea. Clark was hot and itchy from the sun, the sand and the smooth rocks, and he joined him in the surreal green liquid. It wrapped up all the unconsolidated stuff in the world, bound it tight kind of like the heavy wool blankets his mother tucked him under on family ski vacations as a boy. Cozy and safe in this little cove on the Roman Isle, Jacques de Marquee. The visions of past sin and excess came to him like the long, even sets of breakers against the gray limestone, and he longed for the pencil-thin memories of childhood, which waited only to be replaced. Julian had swam out a good ways, to a humbled little black ledge rising incoherently out of the water 500 meters distant, he stood atop it naked, proclaiming the sea as hid whole kingdom, like the small boy who first stands atop a peak, he knew no slightness.

Even submerged in the August sea, the sun was fiery and relentless, Clark thought. He found himself longing for the long northern twilight of his youth, the salty Maine coast that numbed the extremities even at midsummer's crest. Breathing laboriously and doing his best to disguise a frantic doggy paddle as an indifferent backstroke, he coasted up onto the little ledge, joining Julian. Hands together and thrust triumphantly overhead, they sang absurd, lewd melodies of their own creation, Julian ad hoc improvising in poor English. The yacht, the Stranger [it's given name, the 'Evening Star', was dull and unapologetic, he had decided] sat contently on it's mooring in 5 fathoms good standing, as the old timers might say, and he glanced around the little point at her, smiling knowingly. She was beautiful and demanding; forged in the humble good character all sailboats ought to be, he thought. He wondered, like the boat, how much longer he might get away with this minimal upkeep, the lack of plans both terrifying and liberating. 'Everyone was so fucking predictable anyways', he thought with sudden irritability, though this was completely untrue.

Julian had become part of the decor of the island; like a crystal or fossil, he could be shelved and catalogued in his mind, aesthetics to be admired later, now that he knew nothing was going to happen. He saw his aesthetics, his angular, arrogant jawline, piercing blue eyes were only evident in light of the mathematics of the situation; symmetry duly noted without pretense. That was exactly it though, he thought suddenly, he judged with such merciless precision that there was no compassion left over, over a soggy, half-formed opinion. The world was perfect and round when viewed from the sea; all the lookers and assholes and even the nice people were earth-bound and stationary, seen at his leisure from the circular vantage of the ocean. The things that pleased him were grand and austere; their presence never betrayed trust or shifted. He laughed at the irony most people seemed to find in his steadfast trust in the raw, unpolished elements of nature, the gulls and the wind. He supposed most people didn't want to deal with with, to truly deal, well, 'there were so many fucking layers to digest', and they left him for easier subjects.

Some memories, not even memories in the sense of boxed, dusty experiences, but living, animate things; well they were so sensory and perfect that all Clark had to do was channel this and everything fell into place. The warmness of truly relating to someone, the extension of one's own skin was alien at the moment, yet he found some solace in nature's permanence. He swam back to shore in a clouded, hazy paranoia; the awareness of the past he felt was a bit disorienting. Julian led him by the hand back up the dull wooden steps to the house, and yet his distraction still blurred things indecently. When they were bare and sweaty under the thin crescent moon, whose edges lit the windowpanes, only then did he exhale and smile without effort.

He was wrong about Julian, and the next few weeks on the island passed in uneventful bliss. The ineptness and luxurious time wasting of the privileged classes wore on him though, and soon he longed for the unrest and even rhythm of the open ocean again. Italy was somewhere off to the east he knew, with green olive and citrus trees on steep hillsides, and the continuity of the island became too much to deal with, so one night in fidgety sleeplessness he got up and left. He felt awful ,physically twisted in knots of regret and doubt already, as he left Julian under the covers, unaware that he would wake up alone. What it really came down to was a basic intellectual inequity, he though, a rift from which he didn't think they could recover. Julian was organic and emotional, prone to wild gesticulating and waving his hands over life's unsolved woes, and he felt alienated by Clark's infallible idealism and logic.

He left a hastily scribbled note, almost an afterthought to his sudden departure, something for Julian to ponder in quiet madness while he set a course South 60 East to Sicily or Rome. Julian would cry and tear the down quilt to little ragged pieces with a kitchen knife, his anguish simple and unrequited, yet the next day he would awaken stoic and resolute, memory brushed aside forever. He had this ability to slice people out of his mind, surgically and methodically, to almost involuntarily remove the imprint of someones soul. Like a quarter in a subway turnstile, memories were deposited and recycled into the great humming future. He didn't need food, clothing, or even shelter, Clark thought bitterly, just that goddamn black Leica, it's old leather strap clinging protectively round his sleek, strong shoulders. Mama used to say, take you time, don't rush to get grown, and he clung to this simple wisdom now like a life ring in a storm, though the sharp burn of the past few weeks still stung. It was best to think of the past as both a display case of static, beautiful things, and also a grotesque apparition, he decided firmly, and began to hoist the rusting chain links of the anchor out of the inky black water, the adrenaline of exertion drowning out the haze of loss.

It felt so damn good to work, work did make you free, he mused with delicious fatigue, and he decided in the light evening breeze he would hoist all the sail's by hand, veins pulsing with life. The Stranger breathed with collective relief as she moved easily out of the claustrophobic little cove and into the Inky black ocean, letting the little dull amber spots on the distant shore guide him north to Nice and the mainland. The wind kicked up into a healthy southwesterly as he moved out of the wind shadow of the little island, and Jacques de Marquee became a murky shadow, a reflection both warm and sad. The void of the Mediterranean swallowed him up quickly as he'd expected, and the trip regained it's forward momentum it seemed at last. He felt like the warm black water was the only thing he could stare at with singular intensity, or even just full awareness, and not feel uncomfortable. Alone on a boat there was no self-consciousness, no doubt, only action and consequence. He was tired and a bit sore from the vigor with with he'd attacked the rigging, and it reminded him of the playful competition of skiing or rock climbing, the weariness that only caught him when the intensity of the experience wavered.

The best, the absolute best, he thought, was the full body contentment, surreal and immediate, that came from total physical exhaustion. Everyone ought to work hard, to be tired, to be content. People were like those little black dots he'd seen in the north Atlantic on flights to Stockholm as a child; they seemed strange and fascinating from 30,000 feet up, but closer they were just boxes upon boxes, stacked compartments motoring along from point A to B. He wanted his path, the path of The Stranger to be circuitous, strange and unpredictable, and he willed it to be so, setting a steady course in light wind and quickly fell asleep below deck.

Below deck, things were quiet and contemplative as they ought to be, he thought, and the wind ran steady from the southwest at ten knots, propelling the Stranger north towards the dull amber haze of the mainland. He wanted another altercation, even in sleep, a chance to taunt the feebly grasp it seemed most people had on reality, but in the meantime the loneliness of the boat and the black salty ocean sufficed. Without pretense or expectation, a loud glancing blow deflected his shallow sleep and he woke with a deep shudder, expecting to simply be wretched from nightmare to calmness. Instead the thud became many rythymic, tapping steps, quick, assertive feet on the deck above and whisper's of bold provincial southern French.

A flashlight beam pierced the stale, warm air of the cabin and Clark smiled and held up his hands instinctively, as authority always chagrined him, mischivous and arcane. A rapid exchange of broken english and confused accusation followed, and Clark learned that a small, recreational sailboat much like the Stranger was rumored to be at large in the Medditeranean near Nice, carrying a hundred kilo's of cocaine and a dozen illegal immigrant's from Algiers.

The French naval police were easily satisfied by Clark's profession of innocence, and the conversation soon turned to friendly banter over the weather and the superiority of French to American girls. He relished at first the warmth and simplicity of interaction with others, the isolation of the boat and Julian's hold on him melting under hot sun and recognition. Soon though we wished be was asleep again and blissfully unaware of the aloof pirates nearby, as the police clearly had fulfilled the day's agenda and now were content to bullshit and linger on the boat. They had tied up their little escort motorboat next to the stranger and throw a hasty anchor down, so Clark, relieved of setting a new course in morning grogginess, thought he ought at at least pour some drink for his new friends. He measured even portions of sweet vermouth, cheap gin, and a half-empty bottle of Campari into a large pitcher and stirred mildly till the liquid shone brilliant orange-red in the sun, and passed around Negroni's for all, which prompted their leader, a man called Benoit, to compliment his good taste 'for such a young man."

He wanted to tell them he was an old spirit, a person half-realized and translucent, but thought better is inflicting his bizarre idiosyncrasies on them, even as the alcohol dulled his senses. Benoit, as his arrogant little metal nametag announced, turned out to be a fine fellow, from a poor farming family in the Champagne Valley to the north, and not much older than himself.

His aesthetics pleased Clark, his smart, angular jawline ever so slightly forward, his eyes set beneath deep sun creases and filled with kindness. He pictured them sweaty and fatigued, picking grapes on his family's farm in Champagne, the relentless sun driving them towards love or attachment. Clark always projected, always anticipated, always theorized... his life was like a child's Christmas Eve restlessness, drawn out 23 years. Benoit, he couldn't have been older than 30 or so, he was now reading from his lengthy mental archive of past sexploits amongst the university girls in Marseilles and Nice, his tales carefully crafted to hide the obvious lies, not quite well enough. Clark yawned; his vivid style and sharp inflection betrayed him and he knew Benoit was like him; open, confused yet certain, seeking love from everyone. His little group seemed to know this as well, yet they followed politely and egged on his masculine folly, mentally comparing their own record to his bragging. A few hours passed languidly, and as the ball of yellow fire eyed them obliquely from above, the critical time for departure and travel seemed to have arrived. Clark informed them of his plans to take leave of the Stranger for some time, to explore terra firma and the culture he admired and they seemed to deride.

Benoit told him to follow them into Cannes, some 20 kilometers distant, where he could tie up for free for a few weeks at him friends marina. He agreed gratefully, following the fast little police boat at a bounding clip across the now growing whitecaps and foaming sea, the storm clouds to the west looming and ominous. Clark deftly reefed the mainsail and brought it in on a close haul, the keel leaning hard to starboard and shooting out over the static plane like a greyhound after a rabbit, it's eagerness sincere and singular. Propelled by nothing but thermal gradients and ambition, he thought of himself as a modern Huck Finn, the naivete of childhood at ease with the physical constraints of adult life. He pulled into a sheltered cove and the marina just as the sun violently extinguished to the west over broken chalk cliffs and half-silloutted palms, and Benoit suggested he hop into the police boat for the ride across the bay to Cannes. Clark felt the sharp pinprick of anticipation, the reluctant exhilaration of a 16 year oldout for a drive with the cool seniors. Benoit was a cool 27 and apparently knew all the best discoteque's in Cannes, and made promises of things that seemed absurd and perfect.

They left the little grey boat at the police station docks and walked briskly along the faded cobblestone quay of downtown Cannes, and the rest of the party, apparently married and settled, declined the invitation politely, heading up Rue St. Catherine home. Walking along beneath the busy, neon signage and humming nightscape of the waterfront with Benoit, Clark felt painfully self-aware and transparent, his dull, torn levi's and striped navy shirt actually a new direction in style, unbeknownst to him. In reality he was watched and admired, envied, or otherwise noted, an aesthetic transient blending in with the cool kids and washed up old folks alike; everyone wanted the same things in life, the expressions were just different.

His liquid confidence, his cool, placeless aura, it all distracted them. He felt aloof and without worry, and the evening spun involuntarily into sharp corners and narrow buildings as they took turns from the gin bottle, encased in cheap, dirty conversation and delicious silence. Benoit was a neon prophet surrounded by uptight Lacoste polo's and tweed jackets, having made it a priority to stop at home and change into his 'disco clothes' before they went any further. Night's out with strangers were unidirectional and spontaneous, he thought, like a rocked kicked down a cliff over the sea, the course was random but the destination certain.

As the night seemed resigned to pointless distraction and wandering, Benoit arranged a last minute rendevous with his friends from the University in Marseilles, the wealthy young white kids at their family beach homes for the summer holiday. Clark was uncertain of himself for once, unaware of the environment around him, and content enough to be static and watchful around these new, bright faces. The Cote D'Azure was a white stucco and red brick jungle of ancient fortresses of privelidge and inequality looking out across the ocean to Africa. Clark thought of Africa, the real jungle lush and impenetrable, filled with dark shadows and violence. The subtle neo-violence of these social classes and parties, the houses where the cool kids slept bored and fitful; it was all insignificant to the 3rd world, the real world, the world of exotic spices and smells and colors.

As it was, the smell's and color's and young people of Cannes was enough to distort the surroundings, and he walked briskly next to Benoit, like a young boy determined to keep up with his mother but look casually separate from her watch. A group of 4 university girls, their breasts rounded and taunt beneath rakish stripes and revealing lace, joined them in a fit of giggles and cigarette smoke, and suddenly Clark snapped out the social apathy he had felt. He played his card's smoothly, making conversation in casual, broken French and instigating more nervous eyes and laughter, and soon they had decided, or Benoit had decided that they would start at LaRoy, a trendy resteraunt and bar a block east.

Laroy was packed with people young and old, Parisian's, Berliners, Londonites, all ecstatic and high on the humid air of summer freedom, vacationland replacing their programmed, work-obsessed daily lives. The respite from routine Cannes afforded meant people were open, spontaneous, waiting for the fantasies they played in their heads alone in bed at night or on the 6AM train to work, the hedonistic lifestyle and people-watching of the coast. The reality of course was a compromise, a night out on the town ending in bed with a usual lover, a husband, a wife hated for 30 years too long, instead of that local who made brief, delicious eyes with you earlier.

He liked the style and ease of movement the europeans seemed to have, the acceptance of fate paired with sharp, stinging humor, the distaste for mediocrity and dull moments. The girls had obviously done this before, and he got the impression Benoit may not have been bluffing when he claimed to have slept with all of them at various times. The boldest and most aesthetic, Marie, was 22 and hated everyone and everything except the beach and her car, a lime green 63' Mercedes with meticulously detailed, angular pieces of chrome and steel stitched into a luxury bubble. Much like her, Clark thought ironically, the nosebleed's and week-old bruises couldn't hide the past and the present, a monster of her own making that threatened to consume the details of her smiling face.

Her smile was smug, knowing, radiant, he wanted to see it in his head when slept at night, and he playfully tugged at the mauve edges of her skirt when the drinks arrived. She responded with subtle creases of her lips, smoldering ideas of the evening that lay hidden to Clark and Benoit, men caught in the conquest of the moment. Her accomplices, 19 year old Natalie, shy and out to prove herself amongst these alpha females, sat on a narrow stool beside Julie and Carine, each an indestructible 21 and overflowing with flesh and ideas.

Youth was so tame, a sheltered harbor in the storm of career and identity that would inevitably follow, yet Clark also saw the limitless austerity of it, the horizon line unbroken and forward. The undertow of doubt and consequences taunted him even at his most radiant moments, times like this suddenly pleasing evening with five beautiful partners in the August humidity, the air sweating like sex and 5th floor walk-ups with no air conditioning. Marie was about to enter her last year of university, studying archeology and anthropology with a minor in pornography and cocaine, and seemed to exist of the delicious fringes of Marseille bourgeoise society, a transient by choice and popularity. Vaguely inebriated from a third vodka tonic, she told Clark about her recent trip this past Christmas to Papua New Guinea, where she spent 3 weeks living in Asmat with one of the world's most 'primitive' tribes, who form the sound of it had a better handle on reality than anything produced in the post-happiness first world.

The Asmat made love to whom they wanted and possessed none of the sexual taboo's of western culture, it was common for a young man to have several male lover's as well as a wife with whom he had born a child. The justification for their anti-societal hedonism was simply that no justification was needed, if it was in the spirit of love and partnership, connection to the natural world of waving Sago palms and tannin-infused rivers, then all was blessed. They believed we all share a common, interconnected spirit, that the jungle breed's wild animals and violence just as it breed's compassion and virtue, and all living things ought to be worshipped for their own identity. Marie's eyes dilated and her pupil's fixed absently on a distant barstool as she explained this to Clark; it was clear the experience was still very much a living, breathing entity within her, and even here surrounded by the familiar luxuries, she longed for the jungle again. Clark was entranced, lost in the poorly-lit haze of greater-than-this-moment bar bullshit, except this wasn't just bullshit, it was real because it had touched Marie; she flushed the coke down the toilet and told her heavy-handed boyfriend to fuck off and get a job, and she was here now, for the better it seemed.

Marie had this singular fascination with the foreign, incomprehensible edges of society, that which eluded her sheltered childhood, and Clark thought himself much the same, resigned to exploring the safe and familiar. The other two girls had gone home with boy's they met that evening, their expression's during sex glazed and disappointed, as if there was something more to being young and easy and bored. When everyone bore's you, Clark thought irritably, then life is reduced to quiet madness, steady compromise and tedium. He thought of his early childhood in suburban New York, the circuitous chains of commuters snaking towards the city, content to let their soul's wither in aluminum and steel boxes for a few bucks each day. Money was obscure and hypocritical; easy to judge and abstract when it was of no immediate concern to him, yet it was the bane of most people's existence, the reason and the reward for discontent.

Marie was distracted and distant, her eyes playing out future scene's of love making or drug taking, and Benoit had apparently left without plan or warning; his drunk restlessness pushing him to roam the streets a bit. Clark kind of wanted to roam the nightscape a bit too; the dirty black walls and seedy corners of the bar had compressed inward with sweat and stereo bass, and the cool, dark evening was enviable. He hated the awkward expectation's of departure, so he summoned his best indifferent smirk and politely asked Marie if she wanted to go back to her place and fuck, and she replied with a single, exhaling note, "oui". It was fun enough, Clark rationalized; she was another wild child of the modern jungle, she fussed under the covers and kicked and bit like an untrained puppy, and he wished they had all been this fun.

He woke early, with the dull neon edges of the sun barely waking shadow's across Marie's 5th floor townhouse on the quay. He could never sleep naturally in another's bed, as if trust existed only between inanimate things and nature. He liked the consequences of bet's against the wind, the sea or a mountain, and people, even perfect, shining Marie, had somehow become repetitive and indistinguishable. He wondered where he would be in 20 years, still wandering the street's at night or escaping reality on some mountain, while his colleagues and family dug roots into the comfortable confines of midlife society, jobs and children and mortgages taking the edge off reality. He could never settle though, never buy into the system of trading adventure for security; they had to be mutually exclusive in a way. He thought perhaps he'd run up to a storefront and lick the glass in a mock embrace with commercial barriers, the exchange of paper shit for plastic shit, to become lewd and rediculous as a way to love himself. Marie suggested expresso and a croissant at a little patisserie down the block, and he agreed easily; what else were they going to do? Lay in bed and discuss politics or sex or relationships? Certainly not; Clark didn't open up to people like that, or in that kind of timeframe, rather.

Maybe someday he'd live in Boulder, Colorado or Laurel Canyon, Los Angeles and drive a Range Rover and have two medicated, crazy little children whose lives were full of surrogate activity for simple love and running around outside, and a wife held onto ten slow, painful years too long, but wasn't it the American Dream? He didn't know what he was mad about, why he couldn't just hug himself and not want to let go or distract other's into false security, and Marie sensed this distraction and bought him a triple shot expresso and a huge croissant with lox and green and moutarde, which at his surprise she said was to "stop your ribs from showing!" It was true he thought sheepishly, his ribs did show a bit, he couldn't gain weight despite the ungodly caloric intake and junk he consumed, his metabolic rate must be tied to the business upstairs, he figured.

Suddenly, the quiet hum of the cafe was interrupted by loud, mournful wailing, ragged breathes and shallow gasps emanating from a young woman who had the classic look of someone who woke up in an unfamiliar location and stumbled there in last night disheveled clothes, her dress rumbled and stained. "Julie!" Marie cried, and Clark realized it was the girl from last night, the one who had eyed him suspiciously and inquisitively as Marie put the moves on him across the bar. She was completely beside herself and now whispering rapid, slurred French in the embrace of Marie, whose face had turned white and ashen, her eyes vacant and locked on a distant horizon line outside. Benoit had committed suicide last night, a group of boys out fishing along the beach below the big steel suspension bridge that crosses over the canyon on the edge of town had found him mangled and still warm at seven that morning, a note clutched is his left hand reading only "happiness is only real when shared.'

Clark felt ill and dizzy, he fell forward a few feet and caught himself on a table, and slowly, deliberately staggered outside, vomiting cheap gin and bits of breakfast on the cobblestone patio. "jesus fucking christ, that could be me that could be me that could be me", he thought of the miasma of drunken, hopeless, lonely nights that filled his memory bank, the times things seemed beyond repair. Benoit seemed so confident, so easy around these sly panther's of the bourgeoise social scene, his body language even projected austere resolve against the loser's and the washed up, the boring people and little kids, everyone not worthy of his obsession. He needed to leave, this place was toxic, the grand white villa's and their ornate stucco details and brick roofs suddenly melted and coalesced into a foul current of inequality, and he vowed never to return to Cannes; this place was dead, Benoit was dead, hope had left and gone out to sea. He stifled tears and fought back deep, choking sobs as he hugged Marie, who was still in shock and static in her chair at the cafe, and ran down the steep, narrow street to the docks, the Stranger waiting there, humble and beautiful in the morning fog, she was all he needed.

He boarded hastily and began to ready the rigging to set sail, and instantly he calmed and swallowed the acrid bile that had begun to build in his throat, the boat was always there, always the same, ready to love and expect nothing in return, and he turned the heavy wooden wheel with tender affection as she slid deftly out of the little marina under power at 5 knots south by southwest. He wanted music, he wanted art, but really he wanted aural, visual, peripheral stimulation without loss, and the warm, teal ocean swallowed him up once again and shut out all the other bullshit. Now 10 kilometers out to sea and set on a broad reach towards Corsica, he filled leaky plastic bucket's with briny water and scrubbed the wooden slats and fiberglass hatches along the deck with vigor and determination, his forearms bulged with exertion and the little marlin twine bracelet he wore on his left wrist tightened deliciously. Blood flow was adrenaline realized; a steady respite from weariness or too much thought. He wished for the classic, visceral redemption of the hero, the part of the film where the audience had seen enough injustice and rallied for a happy ending. This was the experience though, that goddamn spontaneous, evolving situation that could never be too easy, otherwise it wouldn't be real.

He chastised himself for how easily he'd been lured towards affection, human after all he mused, to cling to strangers like the family he'd forsaken at home, whose lives kept going forward without him, now a memory distant and abstract. The land to the south of sad, dead Cannes, that was what he needed now, and the long white beaches and high limestone cliffs of the islands, ancient myth's of Atlantis and the underworld wound into the landscape, made human tragedy seem small. He wanted to tell Marie he was sorry, sorry he was an asshole and didn't always love himself, sorry he couldn't stay even another minute, or the shiny chrome railing of the suspension bridge might taunt him as well, might beckon him to inspect the void between it and the sea.

[To be continued!!!!!]

Monday, April 19, 2010

Devil's Tower

The little girl was scared. She knew she shouldn't have ventured out past the warm, safe edges of the village, and the dull amber haze of the fire burned over a distant hillside, melting the late afternoon sky into things not comprehensible to her. Then, suddenly, the brush filled with sharp rustling and a low, heavy growl and a bear emerged from the dark, running full gait through the meadow, a freight train headed for collision. Not far from where she stood a low rock jutted unevenly out of the golden dirt, flat-topped and like the rocks the elder's said were ancient tree stumps, she thought. Without so much a second's delay, she jumped up onto the rock and prayed silently to the great spirit to lift the rock up into the sky and protect her from this looming menace across the meadow. Just as she thought this was going to be the end, the earth shook with great fury and the rock lifted high, higher into the air and soon she was a thousand feet above the sweeping plains, the bear's futile effort to scale the vertical walls leaving great claw marks in the stone. According to the Kiowa and Sioux indians who have cared for this land for generation's, this is how Devil's Tower formed.

Devil's tower is immediate and disarming. It is so singular, so geometrically obscene that your instincts tell you it must be some sort of mirage, some hoax set up to lure tourist's to this backwater corner of northeastern Wyoming. Indeed though, it is real, a geological fluke; a giant plug of phonolite porphyry rock forming the heart of an ancient, eroded volcano. The climbing is superb. It demand's complete concentration, oneness with the stone in a way that allows us to discover the hidden weaknesses and cracks in the otherwise blank pantheon of sweeping columns and imposing roofs. There are no 'easy' routes at Devil's Tower, and even the popular 'trade' route, the Durrance, is stout 5.8 and features demanding offwidth and chimney sections that sweeping upward for hundred's of feet without a break in continuity or severity. The cracks are beautiful, parallel, and vertical, and they form at regular interval's of 5 or 6 feet all the way around the tower, in every form and variety from insecure fingertip locks to gaping offwidth's that eat the biggest cam's for breakfast. The thing with ratings at the Tower [which, like the Valley, need's no other moniker to distinguish it from other areas] is that while no single move on a route may be harder than 5.9 or 5.10, the combined pump and sustained nature of the climbing adds up to some of the most demanding climbing anywhere. Pitches are long, most clocking in over a hundred feet and many a rope-stretching 180 or even 200 feet.

After a relatively casual first day on the Durrance Route to the summit in 4 rope-stretching pitches(!) and an afternoon trip up the popular 5.9 handcrack of Soler, we elected to try something a little harder on Sunday. The morning sun greeted us bright and optimistic as we scrambled up the exposed and slabby approach to the super-classic 5.9 figner and handcrack 'Walt Bailey Memorial', often called the best route of it's grade at the Tower. At an imposing 30 foot block/dihedral blocking passage to the real start of the route [this was called '5th class' in our ancient guidebook], we elected to rope up. After climbing some solid 5.8 handjams on the 'approach', I knew Walt Bailey was the real deal. I set off on lead, brimming with excitement and also nervousness looking up the 180-foot pitch ahead of me, a singular lightning-bolt crack soaring upwards with nary a face hold in sight. The first 30 feet moved up and over a large, partially detached flake, and I savored the excellent and relatively straightforward movement between fingerlocks and sidepulls, stemming out to the left with my foot on good face smears. Above this, I moved left 10 feet and into the crack, and this is where the difficulties began. The fingerlocks were relatively good, but I realized soon that this lower 100 feet of climbing was going to consist of big moves off marginal feet on a steep, blank face between the good locks, with hardly a rest to be seen. I moved upward determined to reach the top, but found my progress interspersed with more frequent yells of 'take!' as the pump and sustained climbing took its toll on my arms. Finally, I crested a small bulge and pulled up into the most bomber handjam even, letting my feet cut loose and shouting out with joy, something that finally felt secure! More excitement was a little preemptive though, as the crack soon narrowed again to .75 Camalot ringlocks, my *least* favorite size. As I struggled to to cram my fat fingers into the stubborn crack, I realized my gear arsenal was dwindling a little bit. Time to run it out I guess! I smeared by feet high on little white feldspar crystal knobs, and lunged desperately at a nice looking hand jam. Miraculously, my hand sunk into the warm phonolite like a glove, and I locked off and peddled my feet up hopefully. 5 or 10 feet further and I was rewarded with a beautiful, steep handcrack, and my curses soon turned to shouts of exhilaration as I cruised upward on perfect jams, having so much fun I looked down from the chains to see 3 pieces of gear in 40 feet, the midday sun shining out over the vast plains, life so tangible and satisfying that nothing, nothing else mattered except now.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Edit/Re-Edit
















Great Sand Dunes, 2007.
The rural aesthetic, Santa Rosa Mountains, Nevada, June 2006.
Dunes, Humbolt County Nevada, 2006.
Pyrite Crystals, Chester, Vermont. 2005.
Green Eyes, 2003.
Wilted Flower, 2010.
Rust, Ogdensburg New Jersey, fall 2004.




Sunday, April 4, 2010

A Thousand Lifetimes in the Midwest/Grass is so Green Part II

Contentment was the murder of the possible, he thought quite suddenly, and it was in this newfound, firm resolve that he decided to leave New Jersey for good. The staleness of a place half-realized, strung out like a bad coke binge of shopping centers and neat suburban driveways had unwound the methodical gearing of his mind to where everything threatened to come down. He needed to escape all this sewage spilling over from the excess of New York City, and the logical progression moved westward with the big diesel locomotives and shiny chrome tanker trucks. The shallow strip of dull black asphalt shot west like a laser, parting from it's earnest singularity not even for mountains or rivers, choosing instead to pierce the organic geometry of nature with man's insistent will.

He crossed sleepy, pastoral Pennsylvania early in the morning, the damp summer mist hanging in the valley's like suspended thoughts. Soon, the aging pickup was in Ohio and amongst it's native landscape, the Rust Belt, it's notorious poverty somehow inexpressibly beautiful and raw. The countryside was littered with ghostly apparitions of half-abandoned towns and machines, unchanged since the height of American industry a half-century earlier. When he'd informed his parents of his plans to take a year off from Bowdoin, they agreed in the forced sympathy of a different, more passive generation, where wealth and education converged along the same path, and any postponement of the inevitable middle class boredom was acceptable. So, with this modest approval still fresh in his thoughts, and the sharp pinprick of social stigma faded behind Bowdoin's brick walls, he set off.

He thought of the urban wilderness of his youth in New York with hazy discontent, the kafka-esque groupings of featureless concrete edifices in Brooklyn and Queen where people dwelled all their life, awaiting nothing. This was not to say he wasn't going to miss the tremendous waves of bright creative light that swept the bleak cityscape, that gave it a youthful dimension he wasn't sure he'd find out west, wherever out west ended up being. He recalled a postcard he had received as a child of ten or so, July 1968 he believed it was, which depicted ghostly lime green trees with sinuous branches reaching out over a long, fog-swept crescent of sand, with "Greetings from Santa Cruz" written in gaudy white letters at the top. The yellowed image of the mysterious California coast has fixated him since, and it held a prominent position over his bed in his childhood home, a symbol of exotica suspended with scotch tape in a bedroom in Suburban New Jersey.

A college friend had mentioned this rogue hippy colony that apparently had taken up camp along the verdant green fringes of the U.C Santa Cruz campus, plotting domestic terrorism and writing LSD-fueled manifesto's in the fog-shrouded redwoods. He was smart enough to see the entitled, righteous hypocrisy of the weathermen and the SDS-er's though, their pale white prophecies of equality hollow and plastic. Nevertheless, he'd gladly take hollow prophecies over the toxic arrogance of the blueblood minions that constituted his life at home, so the arrow of change still shot west to Santa Cruz. Life was so worthwhile, so tangible and green, he had to keep reminding himself, or the nervous anticipation of tomorrow overwhelmed him.


The trip west was fantastic and surreal, framed in fleeting greenish-brown blurs of the fertile heartland, the earnest towns along the Mississippi and the rusting industrial cities scattered around the 2-dimensional expanse of cornrows and swampy lowlands. The monotony was broken somewhere around western Nebraska as he felt the imperceptible sensation of rising; indeed, each little town he passed now proudly announced it's elevation, 3000, 4000, 5000, till suddenly he was crossing the high, windswept plains or Wyoming, huge snowcapped peaks dotting the otherwise even horizon.
This was the mythical and romanticized American west, and it proved ever more vast and unkempt than he had imagined; somehow at odd's with man's vain insistence that it should be populated by cows and coal mines, rednecks and cowboys.

The barren plains of Wyoming epitomized the potential of the true west; vast and uncharacteristic, hewn of the same fabric that made men risk all their opportunities on one singular landscape. Silvery and crystalline, the highway burned west, resolved to escape the dry flatness and dive headfirst into the ocean, reckless and abrupt. The long hours on the road strung indecipherably together,and soon the chipped red paint on the truck bathed in the giant convex oven of the Great Basin, an ill-defined, shimmering expanse between Utah and California. The journey across it became a phantasmagorical experience; the mirage of each passing mountain range a promise of forever. When he was thirsty, he drank from a voluminous steel Army canteen, cool chrome water in the stubble on his chin. When he was hungry, he ate; heaping, steaming, plates of pancakes and potatoes, steak and fries nourishing the simple American ideal.

When he was restless, he wrote, mostly because writing connected the pinpoints of life into a single condensate, a map of the future coalescing out of the haze of fiction. One morning, he found himself sleeping in the bright, dewy mist along the imposing eastern flank of the Sierra, the fallen block of the North American plate suspended over the desert. People here believed in god and government, the preacher's and the politician's, the endless landscape they resided in merely an aesthetic backdrop for a pastoral life. These days, everyone was boring, because to pick meaning out of so much dullness and self-loathing was like sieving boulders through a screen; it just wouldn't fit. He was surrounded by that lovely mid-20's existential crisis in which the past and future where indistinguishable, and life was so colorful that a single monochromatic blur emerged from the fray.

The waves on Capitola Beach came in long, sweeping set's, their muffled arrival belaying an energy carried across the whole Pacific. Their even, intent geometry was at odds with the ragged coastline, and he marveled at the end of America, as the interstate had long since faded into neon reflection's in the rear view mirror, replaced my sleepy, vintage roadway's of central California, winding down to the coast. He crossed the fertile, fog-shrouded Central Valley, it's productivity a clever guise against nature, and crested the low Coast Ranges, where the Pacific plate eked slowly to the northwest in a barely perceptible struggle. It was 3 in the morning in late July and the cool evening humidity hung like a half-finished thought as he finally met with the mythical Highway 1, gateway to the promised land of Pacifica.

A half mile to the north he coasted down a gentle grass terrace onto the gravelly beach, and, parking the truck behind some high bushes, stripped naked and ran into the the fluorescent black mouth of the sea, the longest night sealed with salty ocean water. A quarter mile or so to the south, the dull amber light of a bonfire lit the sand, and a half-dozen bum's and hippies huddled round the ephemeral warmth, staged protest against a society they didn't want. He was one of them now, he mused, yet he found their thoughtless, entitled disregard for work repulsive, and vowed to make this newfound vagrancy soulful and fulfilling, to himself at least. He was exhausted in the way the physique withers under stress, yet not in the soul, which flourished in this newfound expanse of space and sky, the tangled green edges of nature now firmly settled on him.

The sun rose slowly over the low, mysterious auburn hills to the east, and suddenly, cresting the broad, contemplative top's of the redwoods, was a brilliant looking glass into the sea, the ramshackle expanse of Santa Cruz spread out to the north. He was hungry, and after a brief survey of the truck located nothing particularly edible or appealing, decided a stroll up the beach into town was of the utmost importance, to establish ground's for future experience. The town was pleasant, no, utopian in a sense, built essentially from nothing, the cultural crossroad's of a place fresh and growing, sprung from wet moss and sharp rock falling into the sea. He thought of money as something ephemeral and unnecessary, yet only when he had it in good supply, the upper class bubble paradox he loathed yet hid behind it's safe plastic curves, insulated from fear.

Santa Cruz was slim and organic, ragged at the edges but bred from the wealth and content of the young people who had escaped from somewhere mediocre and settled here. He walked into a downtown coffee shop with the easy confidence of feigned indifference; the cool calmness of someone terrified of their own potential. He was so human though, so bound by the sun and stars and ocean, that the easy smile of the boy behind the counter still shook his resolve to be sullenly content. The soles of his feet were raw and calloused, stubborn from too many sharp pointy things in the wild underbrush, the smooth quartz sand that squeaked under brisk footsteps. The Barista was a young man much like himself, interjected into a contrived, contextually irrelevant paradigm, free will something to be considered and then forgotten. He was a wild thing, a creature of the deep misty coastal valley's, the sun never quite touching the ground the way it ought to, cast instead in steely oblique angles.

They made pleasant conversation that soon took on the delicious flavor of possibility, of an interest unspoken and perhaps unrealized, the quick exchange of intellectual flexing and playful one-upmanship stirring the restlessness, fueling the inevitable fuck up, he though detachedly, and with this, he smiled and skipped out the rusty green door towards the ocean. The young people gathered down on the beach, their bright uniforms of inequality both shabby and purposeful, fraught with too much caring what other's thought, the opaque mud in the little tidal estuary to the north clouding their thoughts. They took him in as one of their own; indeed, he was, he met the unspoken rules of conduct with exceptional fortitude, the girls all inquisitive and flirting, the boys casually jealous and offhanded.

Their unofficial ringleader, a swaggering, surreal young man who they all called Heavy, who wore filthy cowboy boots and old wrangler jeans 2 sizes 2 small, his lean frame leering forward with intent and determination, balanced on comical, sharp heels, here on the beach in Santa Cruz. He proved kind and endearing though, his rambling stories infused with humble respect for the earth and plenty of self-deprecating humor. Heavy couldn't have been an ounce over a buck fifty, tops, and his skin was taunt yet robust over six feet of muscle and weatherworn freckles, tangled blonde streaks falling down his neck like a runaway train. The girls all liked him, they followed him and asked pressing questions with the urgency of unrequited attention; his answer's always thoughtful yet illegible; written in the cryptic hippy language the young man had yet to learn. Heavy had it figured out though man, he had tuned in and tuned out or whatever that fuckin Leary guy had said; he'd found a quiet place on the fringes of things to sit and think and watch the endless conveyor belt of society spin it's little metal wheels, sipping on a beer and drawing fine maps of the future in his head.

Heavy was a sketcher, an improvisational artist who took in the fleeting details of circumstance and made some meaning out of it. The young man, well he was more of a landscape artist, romantic and thorough, processing the myriad subtleties of place long after everyone else had forgotten. A blessing and a curse, he thought, the comprehension of too much and too little; he needed something to take the edge off this reality a bit, and quickly accepted when one of Heavy's girls pulled out a tab of acid for him. Though the contemplative morning fog had scarcely lifted, he felt the heat and pressure of a New York disco in the damp, warm trip he was setting off on, and settled down on a dirty blanket on the sand, jesting and wrestling with Caroline and Emily, 2 of Heavy's girls, their defiant style both posed and effortless. Life was so strange and circuitous, full of unseen collisions with people who you wanted to meet from the start; the people who kept you awake at night squirming under the cover's in some suburban hellhole.

He thought the California coast was beautiful yet spoiled; exploited by slackers and the debonair, hippies and rednecks, all bent on experiencing the land in such a passive way, their grand beach houses and forest shack's merely appropriating a grandeur that needed no introduction. He always kept his body pointed forward, anticipating, ready for a good introduction, and secretly despised the way Heavy carried himself with effortless swagger, content to slouch and have the tribe come to him instead. The tribe, that's what they were, not a family or a cult or a hippy clan, they had such minimal cohesion it amazed him that they all stayed together so tightly. The girls were well-educated and pretty, their free-spirited demeanor a calculated escape from a neat and trim upbringing, caught in the claustrophobic confines of the 'establishment'.

The LSD and caffeine faded like a train whistle across the plains, and soon he caught the strong desire to climb something, anything, the beach had become filthy and gross, the sand itching as it clung to his feet and tan legs. He spotted a craggy gray outcrop a couple hundred yards to the north, and ran at it full stride, scrambling up the slick, mottled stone until suddenly he was the king of the world, or at least Santa Cruz. The bustling town spreads out to the east before him, and to the west, the horizon stretched unbroken to Japan, made of nothing but liquid and current. He heard a rough laugh and some jumbled dialogue below and turned to see Heavy and Meredith pointing and snickering, Meredith reeling backward a few feet and catching herself in the soft sand with each laugh. He quickly scrambled down the precipice and bear hugged the two before dragging them down into the sand, poking and laughing and tickling until they collapsed, gasping for air and breathing unspoken thoughts.

The air rang clear with the sharp call of the gull's and the shallow, heaving waves until Heavy broke the silence with a declaration. "Getting too warm here. How about you and me and Mer go up to my hideout in town and talk about the elements over tea, eh tiger?" Heavy called everyone tiger. He also spoke a lot of 'the elements', which as far as the young man could tell referred to drugs of sex. He was ok with either, as long as he was safe, safe from strangers, the cold, the dark, the wild, no! he wanted to the wild. But to be now was to be safe. The inside of Heavy's shack was warm and cozy. The uneven plywood and scrap walls were covered in tattered blankets, from which hung half-finished paintings, a brushstroke cut off suddenly like a car off a bridge. In one corner a huge mattress, or rather a stack of mattresses, lay uneven and inviting, books scattered around the edges with bright little notes coming out of pages haphazardly.

Without pretense of explanation, Meredith pulled him down onto the bed and demurely pushed him into the tangled mess of blankets and books. Soon, he was breathing shallow, ragged gasps, and slick with warm bare sweat, the three of them intertwined like some round, organic machine, gear's whirring with animal precision. He wanted this greatly and the mental fireworks came in uneven, staccato rhythms; yet somehow his mind still drifted lazily to ideas of the beach and the lime green trees, the ones that yellowed in harsh suburban glare back home. Heavy eased into him with smooth confidence from behind, and he shivered with static joy as his hand came low across his abdomen, rough callouses on perfect flesh. "That's it tiger, I said god damn!" said Heavy, and the young man smiled nervously, he was his, he was taken, Meredith now sat aside and watched in quiet awe; two men alive and connected. Clearly 4 years at Guilford Academy and 2 at Wesleyan hadn't prepared her for this. When they were done, he lay passively aside a filthy orange beanbag past the stove for a good spell, naked in a thin blanket and conscious of the immediacy of the present as if for the first time.

Meredith came over and started kissing, tugging at him again, but he declined irritably, then relented and wrapped her blonde pigtails in the shallow bony nest of his lap, the afternoon sun filtering in obliquely over the stove. There always had to be a next, he thought morbidly as the little teapot restlessly heated on the stove; always a next, now never lasted against the neurotic leanings of self. He like the silent, faithful ocean, the mountains framed in cold solidarity against man's impudence, how the only thing really familiar was the wild edges of what we'd made. Heavy's shack was spartan and coo, plugged in yet still off the grid to all the non-believer's out there. "Id rather be a whisper to another that a shout to a lover" he thought suddenly, as if speaking the first words after a monastic retreat, vocalizing eons of trapped intent. With that thought suspended like dewey morning ether, he bid Meredith a Heavy farewell for the moment and set off towards town, whistling and leaning back on his heels with the sharp spring of each step. The heavy afternoon air parted in swirling eddies in his wake, and soon he reached the colorful, pastel edges of downtown. He decided that a trip to the art museum [now free on Tuesday's after 5! a bold sign informed] was imperative, like Russia and America making peace or Nixon resigning, it just has to happen, goddamnit.

The bare white adobe walls framed a lot of hippy bullshit, and also some brilliant arrangements, bits of someone's life framed and hung out to dry in the intellectual oven of Santa Cruz. He half stumbled around, drunk on art and sex and youthfulness, until the older woman at the front desk politely informed him it was 6:50 and they would be closing in ten minutes. 10 minutes to the end of the world, he thought, and all he had to show for it were some fucking experiences, "I said god damn!" he whispered, and set off into the buzzing night.

The Art museum was superb, yet he left with the keen sensory deprivation that comes with over exposure to everything, audiovisual assault, and his head reeled as if his eyeballs had been peeled back involuntarily. The early evening was the best part of the California summer, he thought contently, as the heavy oppressive sun faded over the green hills, replaced by intermittent whispers from the sea, fog moving moving over the sidewalk like a lost traveler. Encounter's with other people were draining and physical; they demanded he brush up the rough edges of his personality. His last incident with Heavy and Meredith had been beautiful and unforgiving, and it left him wary of attachment. Perhaps it was the naive depth of experience he sought from strangers; either way it did little to elicit anything meaningful.

He impassively started back towards the beach, away from Heavy and Meredith and the claustrophobic inclusion of the cabin. He was filled with warm thoughts of the first night under the bright, grass green trees in the sand, their crooked branches reaching out of the mildewy postcard. The beach was nature's democracy, the neutral zone between the familiarity of land and the flat, alien landscape of the sea. A martyred, patchwork blanket bobbed in a neat bundle behind his back, the crown on a modest stack of all the earthly possession's he might call his, right now at least. Lying in the itchy, plastic sand, making eyes with the dull cosmic particles in the sky, he realized he didn't have to wake up with any promises or expectations, just the honesty of the moment. His senses were still the master of him though, and he wanted the freedom the Bhagavad Gita promised; completeness only came when nothing was needed.

Suddenly he despised all the posers ,the cretins, the cultural appropriators, they stole and worse, even worse they thought only when it pleased them, as if the experience was a part time gig. "Fuck those cowards who know only action and not consequence", he thought hotly, and with a pinprick of nervous hypocrisy, under the inky black sky. soon he was crying, tugging at the sewn-together fragments of the blanket; he could be warm and content next to Meredith or some of Heavy's kids in the cabin, another tab of acid skewering his brainwaves; instead he was cold and alone on the wet sand. He didn't want them though, to be a follower, yet leading wasn't a goal either. He just wanted the acceptance of the quiet forest and heaving surf; nothing was even good enough for them.

[To be continued!!]